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“Friend or foe?” That’s the question Sicilians ask themselves in regard to Mount Etna, the fiery volcano that rests heavily upon the shoulders of their island. While Etna does indeed have a history of terrorizing the locals, she’s been kind to Sicily’s soil. Loaded with minerals, her lava is the ideal fertilizer, making the region one of the most verdant in Southern Italy.
Swathed in fragrant citrus groves, wildflowers, and flourishing gardens, Sicily is the ultimate smorgasbord for honeybees, enabling them to produce the fragrant miele, or honey, that the island is known for. Often produced in small quantities, Sicilian honey tastes remarkably pure, a quality that the local artisan beekeepers have prided themselves on for centuries.
Beekeeper Giuseppe Coniglio has been churning out organic honey on Sicily’s northern coast for more than 20 years. Carob trees lend an exotic, earthy flavor to his carob honey, one that complements strong cheeses and dark rustic breads. And his chestnut honey oozes with hints of burnt caramel and molasses.
La Nonna, another Sicilian producer, uses the sweet sulla blossom (known as French honeysuckle) to give its extra-virgin (minimally treated) honey a distinct floral undertone. The wild-strawberry honey has a bright color; its flavor is filled with the essence of ripe berries. Puréed hazelnuts add extra sweetness to the hazelnut honey, a delectable choice for glazing salmon.
Italian food purveyor Peck has been selling some of the finest gourmet specialties since 1883, many of which are produced under its own label. Peck’s Sicilian orange honey is deeply fragrant and provides an instant aromatherapy treatment when added to hot tea. And Peck’s robust eucalyptus honey is perfect for glazing meats or acorn squash; its distinctive taste remains on the palate long after the other flavors have dissipated.
Sicilians who live in the shadow of the hot-tempered volcano are blessed that Etna also has a sweet side. 
Food writer Sarah Lacamoire has written for Saveur, Gourmet, and Fitness magazines. |